What Is 2 Ply Cashmere? Ply, Gauge and Quality Explained

Words by Stacey Keen, Head of Collection at Begg x Co

What does ply mean in cashmere?

The word ‘ply’ refers to the way in which a yarn is constructed. Often the term is conflated with a level of quality, when the ply of a yarn is often not what determines the quality level of the yarn itself, or the end product. So, from a technical perspective, there is no straightforward answer to the question ‘which ply is best.’

Plying is the process of taking two or more strands of yarn, and twisting them together to form a thicker, and stronger thread.

  • 1 ply = 1 strand of yarn
  • 2 ply = 2 strands of yarn twisted together
  • 3 ply = 3 strands of yarn twisted together etc

What makes Begg x Co cashmere different

Begg x Co uses a variety of different yarns across our knit and wovens collection. The single unifying factor across all our cashmere products is that they are all spun from the highest grade cashmere fibre, with a long staple length, and they are expertly finished in soft water.

Count, gauge and sett: the technical terms explained

Count

Count is the system of measuring a yarns fineness. In soft accessories and cashmere garment manufacturing, the most common system is the New Metric Count system.

Gauge

Gauge refers to the number of stitches or rows per inch and is a measure of how tightly the item is knitted. The higher the gauge number, the tighter the knit and the more cashmere yarn is used. This can create a smoother, more refined appearance and give the fabric more structure and stability. Conversely, fabrics with a lower gauge, or fewer stitches per inch, tend to be more open and airy, with a looser, more relaxed drape.

Sett

This is the same as gauge, but for weaving. A higher set cloth will have more ends of cashmere per inch than a lower sett cloth.

Where cashmere comes from: from fibre to yarn
Yarn begins as raw fibre. Cashmere fibre comes from the undercoat of Cashmere goats in inner Mongolia. The fibre is graded according to the micron (which is the scientific measurement of the width of the fibre.) Grade A cashmere fibre is approx. 15.5 microns. By comparison, the width of a human hair is approx. 70 microns. So high quality cashmere fibre is around 5x as fine as a human hair.

The fibre is collected, sorted and carded.

Common questions about cashmere ply

Is 4 ply cashmere better than 2 ply?

Not necessarily. 4 ply is thicker and warmer, but fibre grade decides quality.

Is 2 ply cashmere warm?

Yes. Cashmere insulates well even in lighter weights.

Does 2 ply cashmere pill?

All cashmere can pill a little at first. Long staple fibre keeps it to a minimum.

Is higher gauge cashmere better?

It’s finer and more structured, not better. Lower gauge knits are chunkier and more relaxed.